A Complete Guide to Custom Knitwear: Gauges, Patterns, and Textures

Fully fashioned knitwear offers your apparel collection a unique and versatile edge. Whether you’re designing a knit sweater or exploring textures and patterns for your next knitwear capsule, understanding knitwear terminology is key to making informed design choices and appreciating the technical craft behind each piece you create. This guide delves deeply into the three fundamental aspects of knitwear: gauges, patterns, and textures—providing you with a comprehensive understanding of their aesthetic value and functionality.

What is Knitwear?

Fully fashioned knitwear refers to garments made by interlocking loops of yarn, either by hand or machine. Unlike woven fabrics, knitwear is naturally stretchy, making it ideal for creating comfortable and adaptive garments such as sweaters, scarves, cardigans, and dresses. Yarns can be spun in cotton, wool, cashmere, other natural fibers and is sometimes blended with silk, rayon, viscose, polyester and acrylic. Yarn weights can range from super fine to super chunky/jumbo which refers to the thickness of the yearn strand. The texture, weight and drape of the finished knitwear garment will be determined by the thickness of the yarn with the knit gauge.

Understanding Knitwear Gauges

What is Gauge in Knitwear?A knitwear gauge refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch in a knitted fabric. It plays a critical role in determining the thickness, weight, and overall feel of the garment. The smaller the stitches, the finer the fabric; the larger the stitches, the bulkier the garment.

Types of Knitwear Gauges

1:Fine Gauge Knitwear

Description: Fine gauge knitwear features tightly knit, small stitches, resulting in a lightweight and smooth handfeel. Fine merino wool, cotton or cashmere are ideal yarns for this gauge.

Characteristics:

Breathable and soft, ideal for lightweight layering knitwear apparel

Typically used for more fitted styles or light relaxed more streamlined designs due to its polished appearance.

Best For: T-shirts, summer cardigans, and turtleneck sweaters.

2:Medium Gauge Knitwear

Description: Medium gauge knitwear strikes a balance between warmth and weight. It’s versatile and suitable for year-round wear depending on the yarn.

Characteristics:

Moderate thickness and great for more relaxed fitting silhouettes that require a little bit of structure.

Works well for transitional seasons like spring and fall.

Best For: Layered pullovers, casual sweaters, and relaxed cardigans.

3:Chunky or Heavy Gauge Knitwear

Description: Chunky knitwear features large, prominent stitches that create a bold, textured look. Paired with a thicker yarn to accentuate oversized shapes and stitch patterns stunning visual impact.

Characteristics:

Warm, cozy and tactile, perfect for cold weather and heavier layering.

Often used for oversized and dramatic silhouettes with drape and structure.

Best For: Winter sweaters, scarves, and knitted blankets.

Knitwear Patterns: Pairing Style With Functionality

Knitwear patterns determine the visual design and texture of the fabric. Different patterns offer unique aesthetics and functionality, such as varying stretch or warmth. Some popular knitwear patterns are as follows:

1. Plain/Jersey Stitch

Description: The plain or jersey stitch is the most basic and commonly used pattern. It has a smooth, flat surface on one side and a bumpy texture on the other.

Characteristics:

Simple texture with a sleek surface to create versatile knitwear apparel

Works well for both casual and more elevated shapes

Illusion of texture can be created with multi colored yarns for a melange effect.

Best For: Everyday sweaters, scarves, and hats.

2. Lacy/Pointelle Knit

Description: Lacy knits or also known as pointelle knits feature openwork patterns that create a light, airy texture often knitted with cotton or rayon/ viscose blended yarns to ensure a light weight hand feel and elegant sheerness.

Characteristics:

Delicate and decorative patterns throughout the design

Breathable, fine textured and sheer

Best For: Relaxed fitting, throwover lightweight layering styles.

3. Ribbing

Description: Ribbing involves alternating knit and purl stitches to create vertical lines. This pattern is stretchy and often used in fitted garments or to finish cuffs and hemlines to a tapered shape.

Characteristics:

Elastic and form-fitting structure.

Creates a vertical striped pattern that can be accentuated with thicker yarns.

Best For: Body-hugging knit dresses, cardigan trims or chunky fisherman rib knit jumpers.

4. Cable Knit

Description: Cable knit patterns involve twisting groups of stitches to create rope-like designs. These patterns add texture and visual interest with timeless appeal. Usually paired with thicker yarns to accentuate the cable design.

Characteristics:

Thick and cozy, often associated with traditional winter styles.

Adds warmth due to its dense construction.

Best For: Chunky winter sweaters, scarves, and throw blankets.

5. Fair Isle

Description: Fair Isle is a multi-colored knitting pattern that uses two or more colors to create intricate, repeating designs. Fair Isle knitting originated on the remote island of Fair Isle located midway between the Orkney and Shetland Islands to the north of Scotland.

Characteristics:

Vibrant and decorative, with classic motifs often used in holiday or heritage-inspired knitwear.

Adds warmth due to the layering of yarns to create the Fair Isle pattern.

Best For: Festive sweaters, cardigans, and knitted hats.

6.Aran Knit

Description: Aran knits originated in the Aran Islands in Connemara, off the west coast of Ireland. Aran knit sweaters were traditionally knitted in the natural colour of sheep’s wool, an off-white or cream colour. The natural sheep's wool retained their oils making these sweaters waterproof and perfect for the Irish weather. Aran patterns feature textured, raised stitches inspired by traditional Irish knitting.

Characteristics:

Highly detailed with intricate geometric or organic motifs.

Dense and warm, perfect for cold climates.

Best For: Heritage-style sweaters and cozy cardigans.

Knitwear Textures: Feel and Aesthetics Combined

Knitwear textures play a significant role in defining the garment’s hand-feel, weight, and look. Understanding which textures work with your custom knitwear designs can create a unique edge to your knitwear piece.

1. Smooth Knit

Description: Smooth knits feature tightly knit stitches for a sleek, flat surface. Create added lustre with rayon or silk yarns or mercerised cotton.

Characteristics:

Lightweight, breathable and sometimes sheer.

Ideal for layering or wearing as a standalone piece in warmer weather.

2. Chunky or Bulky Texture

Description: Chunky knits have large, prominent stitches that create a bold, cozy texture. Cable and Aran knit patterns are perfect options to create chunky knit styles.

Characteristics:

Thick and warm, perfect for outerwear styles in wool or thick cotton yarns.

Often oversized for a dramatic look with drape and exaggerated cocoon shapes.

3. Fuzzy or Brushed Knit

Description: Fuzzy knits are created by brushing the surface of the fabric, resulting in a soft, fluffy texture. Natural fibers such as mohair, wool and cashmere add to the luxuriously tactile nature of brushed knitwear styles.

Characteristics:

Luxuriously soft, lightweight and easy to wear.

Suitable for both oversized and neater fit styles, giving visual volume without the weight.

4. Textured Knit

Description: Textured knits include raised or embossed patterns, like basketweave or herringbone and jacquards adding depth and dimension to simple knitwear shapes.

Characteristics:

Intricate pattern variation that creates visual and tactile interest.

Provides more structure to the garment due to layered and grouped stitches.

Examples: Basketweave sweaters or honeycomb-knit throw blankets.

How to Design Knitwear

Designing knitwear is easier than you think with Fabra and a little bit of knitwear knowledge. When you are designing custom knit pieces it's worth considering:

Seasonality: Lightweight fine knits for summer; chunky, textured knits for winter. And cotton yarns in mid to chunky weights for trans-season. With potentially endless combinations or yarns, gauges, textures and patterns you can customize your knitwear pieces for year round wearability.

Style: Smooth and sleek for dressier styles, textured and patterned for casual or luxuriously brushed cashmere for elevated statement pieces.

Comfort: Opt for oversized shapes in chunky knits, fine rayon yarns for a light airy summer pointelle knit, or a sleek ribbed knit for more fitted styles that offer easy movement.

Easy Knitwear Design with Fabra

Understanding knitwear gauges, patterns, and textures with our Fabra knitwear guide will empower you to design the perfect knitwear pieces for your custom apparel line. Whether you’re designing for everyday comfort or envisioning a show-stopping winter sweater our 3D design platform will enable you to create fine, smooth knits to bold cable patterns and fluffy textures.

Launching publicly in early 2025, Fabra’s cutting-edge software and low MOQ options will make bringing your clothing a reality that much easier. Sign up to our waitlist for early access to get designing sooner!